This NYC atelier is creating a more inclusive approach to custom suiting
The world of made-to-measure clothing is steeped in tradition. Many contemporary customs regarding suiting—from button placement and color to fabric choices—have been in place for centuries. While that continuity lends a certain timelessness to the industry it also makes it ripe for innovation. Local atelier Watson Ellis is seizing that opportunity.
After working in the male-dominated business for over a decade, Melissa Watson Ellis realized there was a glaring lack of custom suit companies catering equally to women, men and nonbinary individuals. She launched her bespoke NYC atelier to reach that untapped market.
“I definitely saw that the industry was missing a huge group of people,” says Watson Ellis.
At a light-filled atelier on the corner of 8th Avenue and 14th Street, Watson Ellis offers handmade suiting in three options: custom, bespoke and one-of-a-kind original designs. (The difference between the first two is an extra muslin fitting.) First, however, she had to overcome a pretty big obstacle: the lack of suiting templates for cis female bodies.
“There wasn’t a template,” says Watson Ellis. “So I based the middle size off of my own body and then graded up and down from there. What else did I have to work with?”
Along with a personalized and inclusive approach to her work with clients, Watson Ellis prioritizes sustainability in her approach—sourcing fabrics from ethical mills across Italy, France and the U.K. The atelier also offers one of the widest ranges of vegan fabrics in New York. Shirts start at $300 while suits cost an average of $2,200.
Currently, Watson Ellis says her diverse clientele visits the atelier for many reasons. Some want to create custom garments for important days—weddings, premieres, red carpets and openings—while others are looking for day-to-day power suiting. No matter the end goal, she prioritizes a progressive approach to styling as well as construction.
“I always ask a few questions when we start out to see what someone’s vibe is and what they need a suit for,” says Watson Ellis. “Then, I try to push them in a direction that I think would be good for their eyes, hair and skin tone. We always try to push people to do something a little more interesting. Trust us! Don’t be afraid! But we also want to respect someone who’s not comfortable doing a green suit. That’s fine! We can still do the blue and gray.”
At the end of the day, Watson Ellis says her Manhattan atelier has one common goal: “I just want to make you look cool. I want to make a suit how you want it.”